Thailand is a straightforward country to travel in alone, which is why so many people make it their first trip in Asia. Most of what trips up a first visitor is small and practical rather than serious: the shape of the day, the etiquette in temples, how the transport actually works.

What follows is thirty-seven of those small things, grouped by when you will need them.

Before you leave

  1. Check entry paperwork yourself

    Requirements change, and they change on official government pages before they change anywhere else. Read the source rather than a summary of it.

  2. Travel in the cool season if you can

    November to February is drier and noticeably more comfortable, particularly in Bangkok and the north.

  3. The two coasts have opposite weather

    The Andaman and the Gulf do not share a rainy season. If one side is wet, the other is often not.

  4. Pack lighter than you think

    Laundry is cheap, quick and everywhere. Three days of clothes is enough for three weeks.

  5. Bring clothing that covers shoulders and knees

    Temples require it, and a light long-sleeved layer is also the best defence against fierce air conditioning.

  6. Take slip-on shoes

    You will remove them several times a day, at temples and at the door of many homes and small shops.

  7. Book only the first two nights

    Everything after that is easier and cheaper to arrange once you are there and know how you want to move.

  8. Photograph your documents

    Keep a copy somewhere separate from the originals, and one offline on your phone.

Money and everyday practicalities

  1. Carry some cash always

    Cards work in cities and larger hotels. Markets, boats, buses and most street food do not take them.

  2. Withdraw larger amounts less often

    Foreign card withdrawals carry a fixed local fee per transaction, so several small withdrawals cost considerably more than one larger one.

  3. Break large notes early

    Small stalls often cannot change the biggest notes, especially in the morning.

  4. Get a local SIM at the airport

    Data is inexpensive and the coverage is good. It makes maps, transport apps and translation trivial.

  5. Download an offline map

    Useful on islands and in the north where the signal thins out.

  6. Tipping is not expected

    Rounding up is normal and appreciated; a percentage is not the custom.

Getting around

  1. Learn the Bangkok rail lines first

    The elevated and underground lines cover most of what a visitor needs and bypass the traffic entirely.

  2. Use the river boats

    The public express boat along the Chao Phraya is cheap, frequent and by far the pleasantest way to reach the old city.

  3. Agree the fare before getting in

    For tuk-tuks, always. For taxis, ask for the meter, and if a driver refuses, wait for another.

  4. Ride-hailing apps work well

    They remove the negotiation entirely, which is worth a lot at the end of a long day.

  5. Overnight buses and trains save a hotel night

    Book the train early in high season; the sleeper berths sell out well in advance.

  6. Domestic flights are frequent

    Bangkok to the south takes about ninety minutes and is often no more expensive than the overnight bus once you count the time.

  7. Be cautious about renting a scooter

    Check what your travel insurance actually covers, and whether it requires a licence you do not have.

Temples and everyday etiquette

  1. Dress code is enforced, not suggested

    Covered shoulders and knees at every temple. Some sites lend wraps; most do not.

  2. Remove shoes where others have

    A pile of shoes at a doorway is the instruction.

  3. Never point your feet at a Buddha image

    Sit with feet tucked behind you rather than crossed in front.

  4. Do not touch anyone on the head

    It is the most respected part of the body, and this includes children.

  5. Keep your voice down in temple grounds

    They are places of active worship rather than monuments.

  6. Treat images of the monarchy with care

    Respect for the royal family is taken seriously and is a legal matter as well as a social one.

Eating and drinking

  1. Eat where there is a queue

    Turnover is the best indicator of a good stall, and busy carts cook to order.

  2. Ask for less chilli if you want less chilli

    The phrase is worth learning; the default heat level is genuine.

  3. Drink bottled or filtered water

    Refill stations are common and cut the plastic considerably.

  4. Fruit from a cart is one of the best things you will eat

    Cut to order, kept on ice, and sold on almost every corner.

Travelling alone

  1. Eat early rather than late

    Kitchens at small places wind down sooner than you expect, and eating alone at seven is easier than at ten.

  2. Hostels are useful even if you book a private room

    The common areas are where day trips get arranged.

  3. Tell someone your route

    A message home with your next two stops costs nothing.

  4. Keep a card with your accommodation written in Thai

    Drivers may not read the Latin alphabet, and the written address settles it instantly.

  5. Trust the ordinary caution you use at home

    Thailand is not a dangerous country for a woman travelling alone, and the same instincts that serve you in any city serve you here.

  6. Leave gaps in the plan

    The best days on a first trip are almost always the unplanned ones, and a slow first day after a long flight is never wasted.

None of this is complicated, and none of it needs to be memorised. Read it once before you fly and the first few days will feel like the second week.